Plans for 5 Drawer Dresser
These days when y'all have a storage problem, the solution is usually a bigger difficult drive or maybe a new CD burner. Personal space is defined in megabytes, and when you lot run short, you can't just grab the nearest empty shoebox. Not so with the more tangible features in our lives. Things can and do get left piled on the sofa or blimp into an already crowded closet. Our solution doesn't require a plug to play, is guaranteed to work 50 years from now—and is fully compatible with anything you lot'd care to stow abroad. It'south a classic five-drawer ruby dresser.
Equally at dwelling house in a bedroom, living room or hallway, our traditional design combines a pair of modest accessory drawers with three full-width ones for ample storage chapters. It features simple joinery and a unique spacer-block system that makes installing the drawer guides accurate and painless.
In add-on to solid cherry, nosotros used ane/4-in. ruby-red plywood for the end panels. With a 4 ten eight sheet y'all'll also have enough for the example back, bottom and the drawer bottoms. We chose poplar for the subconscious interior pieces and stable, uniform 11.5mm Baltic Birch plywood for the drawer sides and backs.
| Materials Listing | ||
| Key | No. | Size and clarification (use) |
| A | 4 | 3/four x 2 10 sixteen-3/4" cherry (side rail) |
| B | 4 | i-3/iv x 1-three/iv 10 36-1/4" reddish (leg) |
| C* | ii | 1/4 x sixteen-xi/xvi x 27-11/16" plywood (side) |
| D1 | iv | 3/iv x 3/4 x 3-1/2" poplar (spacer) |
| D2 | 12 | iii/4 x 3/iv x 6-ane/4" poplar (spacer) |
| E | 10 | three/iv x one-1/2 ten 17-1/2" poplar (guide) |
| F | 5 | 3/4 10 2 10 31-one/2" ruddy (front rail) |
| G1 | four | 3/4 10 1-1/4 10 31-1/two" poplar (rear runway) |
| G2 | one | 3/4 x 1-1/ii ten 31-1/2" poplar (rear rail) |
| H | 10 | 3/4 x 1-1/two 10 16-3/four" poplar (runner) |
| I | 1 | iii/iv x ane-i/iv x 31-1/two" cherry (trim rail) |
| J | 2 | three/4 x two-1/2 x xvi" poplar (runner) |
| Thou | two | iii/four x 1-1/2 x 16-3/4" poplar (guide) |
| L | one | three/4 ten 2 ten 5" ruby (divider) |
| M | 1 | 3/4 10 ane-1/4 ten 5" poplar (divider) |
| N | 1 | 3/4 10 twenty ten 36" cherry (elevation) |
| O1 | ii | 3/4 10 4-7/8 x fifteen-9/32" scarlet (drawer front) |
| O2 | 3 | 3/iv x six-7/eight x 31-13/32" cherry (drawer forepart) |
| P1 | 4 | 11.5mm ten iv-vii/viii x eighteen-7/8" Baltic Birch (side) |
| P2 | 6 | xi.5mm ten half dozen-seven/eight x 18-7/8" Baltic Birch (side) |
| Q1 | 2 | 11.5mm x 4-7/eight x fourteen-7/viii" Baltic Birch (dorsum) |
| Q2 | 3 | 11.5mm x half dozen-7/8 ten 31" Baltic Birch (back) |
| R1* | 2 | 1/4 x 14-3/4 x xviii" plywood (lesser) |
| R2* | 3 | 1/4 x eighteen 10 30-7/8" plywood (bottom) |
| S* | 1 | 1/4 x 29-1/2 x 32-1/2" plywood (case back) |
| T* | i | 1/4 x 18-1/two x 31-i/2" plywood (example bottom) |
| U | x | 1" No. 10 panhead screw and washer |
| V | xiv | 3/4" No. 6 panhead screw |
| West | equally reqd. | 2" No. 8 fh woodscrew |
| 10 | as reqd. | i-i/four" finishing nail |
| Y | 10 | 3/viii"-dia. ten 2" dowel |
| Z** | 8 | drawer pull, Constantines No. SBH35 |
| AA*** | x | 1/two" 10-mil nylon tape, Rockler No. 70615 |
| Misc: No. 5530 3/xvi" beading bit, No. 6583 five/eight" fingernail bit and No. 6390 2" raised-panel scrap available from MLCS, P.O. Box 4053, Rydal, PA 19046; www.mlcswoodworking.com; mucilage; sandpaper; Behlen medium brown mahogany Solar-Lux stain; Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin End. | ||
| * Crimson-veneer plywood. | ||
| ** Constantines Wood Center, 1040 Eastward. Oakland Park Blvd., Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33334; www.constantines.com. | ||
| *** Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340; www.rockler.com. | ||
Step i: Making The Rails
Begin construction by cutting iii/4-in. ruby-red to length and width for the four side rails. Make the runway tenon shoulder cuts on your table saw, using a miter gauge and stopblock for uniformity. Note that the cuts are v/sixteen in. deep on the outside faces and 3/16 in. deep on the inside faces.
Step 2: Making The Tenon Cheek Cuts
We used a shopmade tenoning jig that slides along the tabular array saw fence to brand the tenon cheek cuts.
Step 3: Making The Legs
To make the legs, rip 4 1-3/4-in.-square pieces and crosscut each to exact length. Marker the positions of the stopped rabbets and grooves on the legs. Gear up your router table to cut the i/4-in. panel groove spaced 5/16 in. in from the outer faces of the legs and side rails. So cutting the grooves in the rails. To cutting the stopped grooves in the legs, first mark the exact position of the scrap on the router table fence. Start with the front left and rear right legs. Lower each leg onto the bit at the marked groove end and feed the work to the left to finish each cut. To cut the reverse front right and rear left legs, feed the open acme end of each leg into the bit and toward the left, lifting the legs off the bit at the groove ends.
Step iv: Rout The Rabbets
To rout the rabbets, switch to a larger bit and, again, go on in diagonal pairs. Withal, instead of pivoting the work down from the meridian, only pin each piece toward or away from the fence at the rabbet ends. Later on the main rabbets have been cut, rout the case-back rabbets in the rear legs.
Pace 5: Cut The Leg Tapers
Use a taper jig on the table saw or the band saw to cutting the leg tapers, and smooth the sawn surfaces with a paw airplane.
Finish the legs by routing the corner bead. Set up an edge-beading bit in your router table so when the half-round cutting is made from two adjacent faces of a leg corner, a three-quarter-round dewdrop is produced
Step half-dozen: Finishing The Stop Panels
Temporarily clamp the rails and leg assemblies. Hold the parts in alignment with two three/iv-in. brads at each articulation, using pilot holes to prevent splitting the woods. Then, rout the decorative bead around the inside edge of the frame. Finally, cut the plywood panels to size, sand, employ glue to the joints and assemble the case ends.
Pace vii: Assembling The Case
Cut the poplar spacers and drawer guides to size, and attach them to the end assemblies with i-1/4-in. finishing nails and glue.
Step 8: Cutting The Frame
So cut the drawer runners, track and center divider pieces to their finished sizes. Utilise your router table and 1/4-in. directly bit to cut the centered, stopped grooves in the ends of the front and rear members. And then, use the table saw's miter guess and the tenoning jig to shape the tenons in the front-to-rear members. Run the outer edges of the cherry pieces over the edge-beading bit to produce the twin half chaplet equally shown in the cartoon. Assemble each frame with glue and clench. When the mucilage has set, diameter the screwholes in the top frame for attaching the case top and add the holes for securing the small-drawer partition frame. Rout the rabbet for the instance back in the bottom frame.
Step 9: Securing The Case
Use partially driven 2-in. finishing nails to temporarily secure each drawer frame to a side drawer guide. Then, diameter the screwholes for permanently attaching the frames. Dry assemble the case to check for fit. Then, disassemble, apply glue and reassemble the components. Screw the minor-drawer partition frame between the two top horizontal frames and add the runners to the frame elevation and lesser.
Step 10: Deadening The Dowel Holes
Utilize a doweling jig to bore dowel holes for joining the case-top boards.
Stride 11: Clamping The Boards
To ensure a flat assembly, use pairs of cauls clamped across the boards. Wax the cauls so they won't get glued to the workpiece. Then, employ mucilage to the mating surfaces and clamp.
Step 12: Smooth The Top
Shine the pinnacle with a cabinet scraper. Then, cut information technology to exact size and rout the top edge with an ogee raised-panel flake.
Step 13: The Drawers And Finishing Touches
Lay the top upside downwards and round the edge with a fingernail fleck, using a straightedge to guide the router.
The Drawers
We congenital the drawers with a drawer lock joint as shown in Detail 4 of the drawing on page 89. Afterwards cutting the pieces to exact size, use the tenoning jig to cutting the grooves in the ends of the drawer fronts. Use the miter gauge and repeated cuts to shape the dadoes in the drawer sides, and cut the rabbets in the backs. Rout the grooves for the drawer bottoms.
To assemble the drawers, first apply glue and join a front end and rear to a lesser. Then, glue the sides to the front, rear and bottom panels.
Finishing
We stained the ruddy with a coat of Behlen medium chocolate-brown mahogany Solar-Lux stain with ten percent retarder added to ease brush awarding. Follow this with two coats of Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin Finish. For smooth drawer operation, use a strip of self-agglutinative nylon tape to each runner. Secure the top, back and bottom panels, and install the drawer pulls.
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Source: https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a120/1273366/
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